diy 16mm film scanner

I am having trouble getting a clear image when the camera is so close to the film gate. The idea is simple and smart, the software uses the sprocket holes as reference to find, align and extract the frames. All customers get FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. 4.

Connect your camera to its cable and make sure all connections to the circuit and Arduino are complete, especially the connections to common ground.

The parts only cost $5, just follow the links below (w/Free Shipping! Using the diagram provided, make your motor circuit and hook it up to power and Arduino.

Lab tests on an industrial version that uses a camera with a global shutter.

Please join us there.

The work with high dpi resolution became more stable also. Cut a piece of 40x70mm acrylic.2nd.)

6 years ago (Amazon = $3.77 + shipping), 1x 70mm x 90mm PCB board (New Egg = $4.75), 0.75" standoffs (Amazon = $5.26) +#8-32 0.5" screws (Amazon = $3.16), 4x 1.5" 1/4-20 bolts (Home Depot = $2.36), 2x 90-degree 0.75" bracket (Home Depot = $1.97), 2" T-slot extruded aluminum, 12" (McMasterCarr = $12.85), 2x 8-hole t-slot compatible plates (McMasterCarr = $14.60)*, 1x 4-hole t-slot compatible 90-degree brace (McMasterCarr = $5.58)*, Microscope (for parts), should have a vertical adjustment (coarse + fine) and a horizontal plate for mounting additional camera plates. 3 years ago.

This circuit controls the motor using PWM (pulse-width-modulation). That is, inexpensive desktop technology for movie film scanning is still below the highest professional standards of resolution and depth, but not for long. The gate platform will support the gate and rollers. I'm currently working on one using a Raspberry Pi and am trying to figure out what I'll do for the sprocket. Attach the post to the gate platform.

There's a problem loading this menu right now. After scanning you go to cinetovidpro software and extract the frames from the scanned filmstrips. We started an intensive e-mail exchange, about 300 e-mails since the beginning, many versions have been developed for me to test to find bugs and to give him ideas of aspect ratios and features. This is also an area being improved in the next design. 14 – The scanner software has manual or automatic setttings for scan, so you can do image correction in post production or in the scanning moment making things easier and faster if you want.

In some cases, you may want to control the motor manually.

Follow the schematic above.

3. Do not tighten all the way.

These instructions are for both platforms built in the previous step, so you will need to do everything twice. I'm working on those right now and will offer them as a Kickstarter reward (cheap) when the 8mm prototype is ready in a couple of months. The gate provides illumination and a structure for guiding the film into position for photographing. Compatibility is good with iPhone, iTouch, Galaxy S4, HTC or a… You can improve the exposure to get better dynamic range keeping good shadows and highliths with this tip: Select auto exposure in scanner software. If you work with a big transparency lid scanner like the Epson V700 and V750 and low dpi setting, like 3200 dpi, you can scan one 50 feet super 8 cartridge in one hour work, and one 100 feet 16mm reel in two hour work, good for a DVD quality output or to share on internet. Once your film is scanned, invert it in your favorite image editing program, then some color correction and dust removal should give you a nice result: This’ll work for negative film and color slide film. John Barry, known for composing 007's theme song, gave us 2 cans.

This is what happened to the old Hollywood films when they stored them in a tight fitting can. You can see some parts in this video is cleaner because I did a better cleaning job. The settings used for it was: Unsharp Mask: 400 / 4 / 0 (this is for 9600 dpi, for other dpi USM will be different, the less dpi, the less unsharp mask you can do). The one with the larger window is for 35mm and the smaller one is for 16mm film.

(Amazon = $107), 2" t-slot compatible sliding bearing (McMasterCarr = $46.16), Hand-brake for sliding bearing (McMasterCarr = $10.17), Camera shutter cable - see description and link in previous step (est $50), 12V power supply (buy a plug-in power supply that can run at 1-2 Amps or buy a bench power supply which I recommend having around: Jameco = $99.95), N400 Diode (Amazon = $5.30, or Sparkfun = $0.15), Mini breadboard w/ jumper wires - optional - (Amazon = $6.49), Adjustable Inserts (metal tabs) - (Amazon = $10.65), 0.75" flat brackets (Home Depot = $2.48).

Plug in your 12VDC power supply to the circuit.

The telephone jacks actually provide a perfect amount of pressure on the film edges and the tabs provide a smooth metal surface without requiring the construction of an all-metal gate. Clean your workplace, scanner and film before scan work, and while you feed the film, keep cleaning it.

You will need to build TWO of these.

Positive leads face up, the negatives face down.

The relay activates the camera shutter cable when the roller switch changes states.

These settings are for the V500 scanner, for other scanners the settings can be different. Epoxy them to the top and bottom of a flat length of metal 3.5cm in length. To test the circuit, plug in your Arduino to your computer (for power) and hit the roller switch. Cut the cable from 4 telephone jacks (male) and epoxy them to the back-side of the face plate where they will meet the edges of the film. If you go the microscope route, you will need to build a mounting plate to affix the post to the slider bearing that fits on the t-slot rail. If you use your camera to digitize large amounts of film, it will need repairing. 8.

You will need to drill small holes for the bolts. 5: With epoxy, glue a piece of magnetic strip on either side of the window. No worries, we were able to establish digital copies of our most treasured photos.

One a breadboard or a blank prototyping Arduino shield (pictured), wire the relay. Let me know if you do! Open the levels window.

To learn how to use CineToVidPro just read the help file included in the download and also the websites pointed here. I've posted some pictures of my solution here, which was made of two acrylic plates glued together, then mounted to the sliding bearing. When I import the .obj files, they're not able to be edited to put in the Super8 sprockets. Color print film might be tricky to do properly. 6 years ago After the downsize you can resize for the resolution you want. Thanks. The Magic lantern firmware has a feature called silent shooting.

2: Attach the panel holders, 2 per long side and 1 per short side of the platform as shown (you'll see I was missing two on one side but the parts list has been updated and you should have all 6). 8 months ago. Using a level, adjust the leveling feet so that everything is level. 5: If you have access to a laser cutter, you can laser cut the acrylic for the platform with this file. Tap both ends of each piece with the 1/4-20 tap. But I realize the challenge would be how to extract the frames from the scanned filmstrips and how to build a movie with good stabilization and in a good / fast workflow? Do you have a link to the documentation on that?

Again, good instructable and easier than trying to use the old scanner.

Hot glue them in place. The sprocket roller should be placed on the post immediately to the right of the main gate assembly. If you do not have access to a laser cutter, a round shape is not necessary, just the holes. I stacked 6-8 of them and taped them to the back of the gate. Like Our Facebook Page, Get more updates! If you’ve tried to scan film using an ordinary flatbed scanner as you would a piece of paper, you’ve probably discovered that it didn’t turn out very well. The 3D files are downloadable on the site (http://kinograph.cc) and you can easily upload that to shapeways if you'd like to get some made.

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